Ero un po' scettico riguardo ai dati sull'assunzione calorica riportati da Monbiot e non sono riuscito a trovarli nei due link contenuti nell'articolo del Guardian.
Ho trovato che nella rubrica delle lettere del Guardian del 19 agosto c'era questo:

If George Monbiot truly has “found no reason to disbelieve the [government] figures” about how many calories we eat, then he has not kept up with the science. The problem of “under-reporting” (people not telling researchers completely what they eat) has been well known for decades, and documented in hundreds of articles, even in the government reports Monbiot cites.

Certainly, we have a problem with excessive sugar consumption. But even the most important recent document on sugar, the 2015 SACN report, acknowledged average under-reporting of 34%. People admit to only two-thirds of what they actually eat. Which means most UK adults consume over 3,000 kilocalories per day – well in excess of what is needed to maintain a healthy weight. So they put on pounds. This is basic biology.
Jack Winkler
Emeritus professor of nutrition policy, London Metropolitan University


La questione è affrontata anche da Christopher Snowdon in questo articolo dello Spectator:
George Monbiot blames the government for rising obesity levels – there’s a simpler explanation.
Snowdon conferma i dati sull'apporto calorico forniti da Monbiot, corroborandoli con altre fonti. Poi affronta la questione dell'under-reporting (dichiarazione sottostimata o sottosegnalazione, più o meno):

These surveys have raised concerns about mismeasurement. We know that people under-report what they eat and that fat people under-report more than thin people. In 2016, Public Health England hired the Behavioural Insights Team to look into this. Sure enough, they found evidence that people under-reported calorie intake and that the scale of under-reporting had risen over time, but even after correcting for this, they found that we are consuming fewer calories than we did in the 1970s.

Però Snowdon, come fa notare un commentatore in calce al suo articolo, pare non abbia letto bene l'articolo del Behavioural Insights Team da lui linkato. Ne estraggo una larga parte:

Our first, most important, finding is that the national surveys used to measure calorie intake are under-estimating how much people are consuming.

We know this because reported calorie consumption is too low to sustain our current weight, even if we were only doing the minimum possible level of exercise. We also have reliable methods that show we are burning much more energy than the statistics suggest (and we must be consuming at least this much energy, or we would be losing weight).

Reported calorie intake versus estimated true calorie intake for adults
https://38r8om2xjhhl25mw244...

Our second finding is that it appears this problem has been getting worse over time. If we correct the figures for this increased under-reporting, it appears that calorie consumption may have been rising, not falling (see graph below).

Calories consumed in the home (Living Costs & Food Survey), corrected and uncorrected for under-reporting
https://38r8om2xjhhl25mw244...

Finally, we address the argument that a fall in physical activity has been the main driver of obesity. The report concludes that this is not a plausible explanation: the falls required to explain the rise in obesity are far too large, once you take into account the fact that heavier people require more energy to sustain their own bodyweight.

A cluster of factors are driving this increased under-reporting. We are now more obese and more likely to say that we are trying to lose weight, both of which drive misreporting; we snack and eat outside the home more, making consumption harder to track; and we are simply less likely to respond to surveys, which makes the data of worse quality.

Importantly, the Government Statistical Service has responded to our report positively and is going to change the way it measures calorie consumption as a result. We look forward to working with them to ensure that the upcoming childhood obesity strategy is informed by the best possible evidence.

Nel suo articolo, comunque interessante, Snowdon critica le tesi "antindustriali" di Monbiot e cita come cause secondarie dell'aumento dell'obesità la diffusione del riscaldamento centralizzato e la diminuzione del tabagismo, oltre a ricordare giustamente che ad una diminuzione dell'ingresso calorico medio può accompagnarsi una sua diversa distribuzione nella popolazione. Per Snowdon l'aumento dell'obesità è in gran parte dovuto alla diminuzione dell'attività fisica (che lui documenta con una pletora eterogenea di studi), in aperta polemica con Monbiot ma di nuovo in contraddizione col report di cui sopra, secondo il quale il declino dell'attività fisica non può essere la causa principale.
Quanto all'affidabilità dei dati, è vero che Snowdon linka vari studi che documentano una diminuzione dell'assunzione calorica negli ultimi quarant'anni, ma a me pare che tutta la discussione sia partita da una premessa accettata troppo in fretta e che non si sia tenuto in debito conto la difficoltà di un corretto conteggio delle calorie.
Partire da premesse sbagliate o dubbie non è il modo migliore di affrontare un problema.